Crossings
Sunset off the bow of the Queen Mary 2, May, 2026
I’ve never been attracted to travel alongside throngs of people that require loading on and off of buses to be deposited en masse for a few moments of “oohing” and “ahhing” in front of sites that are minimally explained by overly perky guides.
Just not my idea of the point of travel.
To me, it’s about discovery and surprise and moments of “who knew”! It’s rambling down cobblestone or tiled paths to find a small cafe with surprisingly refreshing beverages served by easy going proprietors.
Add to that my general overwhelm at the concept of cruises on the ocean-going behemoths plying the seas today. The thought of pulling into port and disembarking with thousands of humans prowling about for the perfect souvenir - well, my palms are sweating just writing that sentence.
So it is with great surprise and bemusement that I confess how much I truly adored crossing the Atlantic on the Queen Mary 2 this year. I had no idea that travel itself could be so calming and comfortable and truly enjoyable.
As much as I enjoy being in other places - other countries - the process of getting there is always filled with certain stresses. The risk of weather delays that cause missed flight connections. Crowded and crabby airplanes. Simply schlepping suitcases and bags from planes to taxis to hotels. It’s the process of arriving - and departing - that’s the hassle.
But not so when one travels from London to New York on the Queen Mary. This is a ship built for crossing the Atlantic, meaning stabilizers and the heft to remain steady. And a crossing is not a cruise. It’s a voyage with a singular purpose - to transport its passengers from one continent to another with no stops - or visible land, for that matter - in between.
We had been talking about doing a crossing for nearly 45 years - as that is how my husband’s family came and went from the U.S. in the late 1940s and 1950s before jet travel was readily available. And we wanted to do a crossing together.
It is now my new favorite way to travel. We traveled on the Olivier Awards crossing - or the British version of the Tonys. That meant we had talented actors, singers, and choreographers on board for nightly entertainment and classes and lectures. There also were a talented classical pianist, a former ambassador, and a forensic pathologist as well to entertain and enthrall us with lectures and performances.
Dining options were plentiful and the daily afternoon tea was both a sight to behold and a replacement for dinner, if one so chose. There were quiet areas with puzzles and games; a library filled with books and magazines and daily word games; a decked out gym facility; a spa and salon; a casino and shops; and pools and decks for strolling and games. It was a complete resort experience on the ocean.
A daily calendar of events guided some of our activities, but once again, it was those experiences we stumbled upon that are the most memorable.
The first morning, we set off on a quest to find the best coffee on board led, naturally, by a sense of smell. When we located a lounge with the right aroma of espresso beans that had a surprise array of breakfast food available, we settled in for a comfy nosh. And that’s when we first heard the words, “Welcome to morning trivia!”
We aren’t trivia people. Or we weren’t trivia people before deciding with a shrug that we could just play along on our own while the decidedly competitive lot around us teamed up with glinty eyes.
At least we began on our own before a nearby couple asked if they could join our clearly non-competitive effort. And that’s how we met John and Delyth.
They had been speaking an indecipherable language before saying they wanted to play. As we laughed our way through a shoddy showing that demonstrated our lack of trivial knowledge, we learned the language was Welsh, and now we have added Wales to our list of places we must visit.
They became our plus two for evening performances in the well-appointed theater, and our favorite people with whom to share a bottle of bubbly on board.
Yes, the people on board become part of the charm of a crossing. There was the author and her wife celebrating the publication of her new novel; a fascinating former PR exec traveling on his own as his wife hated sea travel; darling octogenarian sisters who crossed every year with the Oliviers and had booked out the next two years. The sisters told us they once had crossed with a literary crowd but found them all toffee-nosed, a new favorite British slight to toss around when warranted.
It turns out that a crossing of seven days leaves one with no jet lag as those five hours are reclaimed slowly along the way. So I’ve decided that this is the way to travel in the future and we’re already hatching reasons to return to London - new shows, old friends, and restaurants we simply must try.